The cause of most windshield wiper problems often can be difficult to determine, particularly since the entire wiper system is located underneath the dashboard. Thankfully, the causes of most wiper problems can be at least narrowed down to a few, depending on what the wipers are doing, or not doing. Because Chevrolet has been manufacturing trucks since the early s, not all Chevy trucks are constructed the same way.

It is necessary to at least have a copy of a Chevrolet shop manual or a schematic of the wiper system to locate the relevant components.

Many windshield wiper problems can often be traced to a dry windshield. Because more friction is created between the windshield and the wipers when the windshield is dry, the wipers will likely operate more slowly on dry glass, and may actually chatter or fail to travel a complete arc.

It is necessary to first spray water onto the windshield before the wipers are tested. If the wipers do not respond at all, first make sure that the truck's battery is charged with a volt meter. If the battery has a charge, the problem is likely a blown fuse.

The fuse box is typically located against the firewall on the interior of the truck, just above the brake pedal. Some Chevy fuse boxes are labeled, so locating the fuse for the windshield wipers is easy. If the box is not labeled, refer to the owner's manual for the location of the fuse.

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A faulty wiper control switch can also prevent the wipers from operating, even if the control switch still activates the turn signals. Finally, the wiper motor behind the dashboard may be faulty. Unfortunately, both the wiper control switch and the motor must be replaced, as they cannot be repaired.

When the wipers are "parked," they are in their position of non-operation at the base of the windshield. Wipers that do not park stop in the position they are in as soon as the wiper control switch is turned off, usually in the middle of the windshield. If the wipers fail to park, the parking lever switch behind the dashboard should be checked for proper adjustment. If no adjustment is necessary, the problem is likely a defective wiper control switch.

If the wipers operate slowly, first use a volt meter to make sure that the battery is fully charged. If the battery is fully charged, check for any binding pivots, linkages or cranks underneath the dashboard. The wiper's motor controls two metal arms.

Each of these arms connect to several other arms, which ultimately attach to the base of the windshield wipers. Any interference with these arms can cause the windshield wipers to move slowly.John buznme.

Brand new battery, had to use the key to open the door and charging the battery doesn't help. Key is stuck in the ignition still. Please help ram van I started drove it fine parked then went leave and no power what so ever nothing? February 2 by Carla Page. This sounds like a very dead battery to me. Of course it will run after it is started, the current is provided by the alternator. If the battery has caps on it, remove them and check the cells to see if they are properly filled with distilled water.

Then run your trickle charger on it for a few hours. If it is a sealed battery, replace it. I heard if you stand in the drivers door way and jump up and down and rock the van back and forth real hard, with the key on it will start. Show 3 more comments. One summer at Jackson Hole I noticed various helpful locals try to get a truck started owned by two just graduated college ladies.

They ran a charger over to it, jumped it with jumpers, and measured it with a voltmeter. The battery was at full voltage. The headlights worked OK. When everybody finished shoulder shrugging, packed up and left, I asked the ladies what the story was. It was a new battery that somebody sold them about a week earlier and it worked fine usually, but not always. I grabbed the battery cable connectors and tried to twist them.

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I easily pulled one cable off.Most gas tank units consist of two parts, the gas gauge mounted in the dash and a tank sender mounted in the tank. The following trouble-shooting instructions apply to the AC-type fuel gauge, which is one of the most common type of units.

Your service manual will give you any added instructions necessary for your specific type of fuel gauge. The gas gauge, often located in the instrument cluster, consists of two small coils spaced 90 degrees apart with an armature and a needle placed at the intersection of the two coils. A dampener is also located on the armature to prevent excessive needle movement on rough roads. The tank sender unit is mounted to the outside of the gas tank with a float on the insideof course and is made up of a metal housing that contains a rheostat which is simply a resistance unitand a brush that comes in contact with the resistance unit.

The opposite end of brush unit is attached to the float arm located inside of the gas tank. The movement of the float arm is controlled by the amount of fuel in the gas tank.

The variations in the amount of fuel in the tank cause the arm to move. This changes the resistance of the tank unit, changing the amount of current at the gauge unit coils, which in turn moves the needle located between the coils. Beginning aroundsome vehicles have a small voltage regulator behind the dash that supplies a stable voltage supply for the instruments — something less than the battery voltage of six or 12 volts.

This isolates the instruments from the effects of varying battery and generator voltage. So if you are checking voltage at the dash gauges on these cars and you read something less than battery voltage, it may be normal.

Fuses and relay Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2007

The most common cause of gas gauge trouble is a poor ground, especially at the tank sender unit. It is important that all wiring connections are clean and tight, and free of dirt and corrosion.

A poor ground or loose connection to a gas gauge is just as likely to cause problems as loose or dirty battery cables assuredly will with your starting system. To check further, connect a jumper wire between the ignition switch and the dash gauge.

If the gauge now works, replace the defective wiring between the gauge and the ignition switch. If the gauge needle remains stuck in one place, try turning the ignition switch off and on several times in succession.

This will allow you to determine if it is the dash gauge or the tank sending unit that is defective. A functioning sending unit will have a high resistance when the tank is full and a low resistance when the tank is empty. If the gauge reads higher than it should, make sure the wire attached to the electrical terminal on the tank sending unit is making a good ground connection.

If necessary, clean the connection and reinstall the wire to the terminal, then check the gauge operation. Turn the ignition switch on. If the gauge reads empty or below empty, the sending unit is defective. If the gauge still reads high, try grounding the tank unit electrical terminal to a clean portion of the frame. If this brings the gauge to empty or below, the tank unit is OK, but there is a bad ground between the gas tank and the body or chassis or less likely, between the tank unit and the gas tank.

Either way, find and correct the bad connection or merely run a permanent jumper wire from the frame to one of the screws holding the tank sending unit to the tank.

If the gauge still reads incorrectly, the wire from the tank unit to the gauge may be faulty. Check by using a jumper wire to ground the tank unit terminal on the gauge the one not connected to the ignition. If the gauge now reads empty or below, the problem is in the wire leading to the tank or its connection to the gauge. When the gauge reads lower than it should, check at the gauge by disconnecting the wiring from the tank unit.

Turn the ignition on and if the needle reads full or above, the gauge unit is probably good and the tank unit or the wiring leading to it are probably the problem. Reconnect the tank unit wire to the gauge before proceeding.

The next trouble-shooting task begins by disconnecting the wire to the tank sending unit. If the gauge still reads full, there is likely a short to ground somewhere between the sending unit and the gauge. Look for worn insulation allowing the wire to contact the body or frame. If the gauge reads full or above with the wire disconnected, the problem is in the tank unit rather than the wiring.

It could be an electrical fault, or the float may be stuck or may have sunk because of a hole caused by corrosion.I have checked all of GM tech bulletins. Have installed new dual climate control panel.

Are you cetain that the system has enough refrigerant in it? There is also a low pressure switch on the line going into the evaporator. If it is faulty or senses low presssure the compressor will not be allowed to come on.

I think the only year for the snowflake with the red slash was If no click, check for power at the green wire at the compressor. Check the black wire for ground. Check the dark blue wire at the low pressure switch for five volts with the switch Disconnected. Check for ground on the black wire.

With the switch plugged in both wires should show ground.

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If the blue wire still shows five volts. Your low on Freon or the low pressure switch is bad. Testing high pressure switch 1. If missing either circuit, check a few inches back from the connector and see if voltage or ground is present there. This will remove the indicator from the display. Here is the AC and compression wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works with a guide to help you test the circuits. Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is. Was this answer helpful?

The compressor is good and the pressure switches are new. However to tell where the short is you would need to do some testing inside the control panel to see what is burning out and what it controls.Automotive Forums.

If I run a hot wire to the fuel pump fuse the pump turns on same if I run the hot wire to the green wire on the fuel pump relay I can hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump runs. But evan when I run the hot wire and crank it the injectors will not spray I have power going to the injectors and check them with 9 volt battery and they spray so something is just off and I can not fiqure it ou I just need help so if any one can help please let me know what to check.

But evan when I run the hot wire and crank it the injectors will not spray I have power going to the injectors and check them with 9 volt battery and they spray so something is just off and I can not fiqure it ou I just need help so if any one can help please let me know what to check with the key to ignition on, you should have 12 volts to the fuel pump relay contact I replaced the ignition switch and the ecm.

Then check for key on prime up sigal from VCM relay that turns on relay. Also signal from VCM to relay engine cranking. Got good spark craning. What is pump pressure with pump jumpered? I was going to post this last night but had a very long power failure here. I think your vehicle has a oil pressure switch.

The oil pressure switch is only a back for fuel pump in case the fuel pump relay fails. I drove a '94 Chevy Diesel over K miles and when the fuel pump quit working the first thing I would do is replace the oil pressure switch.

Happened 3 or 4 times over those miles. Oil pressure switch only supplies power to fuel pump if fuel pump relay fails. That's interesting. So my truck had a bad relay probably to start with. Then the oil pressure switch failed and killed the pump.

I replaced oil pressure switch, truck runs fine again for 50K miles. All the while pump relay not working. Anyway back to this guys question. SO, with a failed relay and a good oil pressure switch pump should be working? The 6. But engine has to be cranked until oil pressure comes up. The relay out put power and oil pressure switch output on the gray wire from both is connected together to fuel pump power feed.

2001 chevy 2500 no power to 4x4 fuse full version

The oil pressure switch was put on them and designed to power the fuel pump in case the fuel pump relay or relay circuit fails.If you there is no power to the fuel pump or the relay, then there may be a possible electrical issue with the vehicle.

I would first verify that the main EFI, fuel pump, and ignition fuses are not blown, as these can sometimes cut off power to the fuel system. The ignition circuit, which includes the ignition switch, controls power to many components, including the fuel pump and relay.

If there is an issue with the switch or the circuit, perhaps a wiring problem, then power to the fuel system may be cut off. It may also be possible that the fuel pump relay itself is bad and needs to be replaced. I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, check for any electrical problems and perform any needed repairs. Q: No power to the fuel pump and the fuel relay is not getting power.

My car has an automatic transmission. Eduardo Ruelas Automotive Mechanic. Thank Eduardo.

2001 chevy 2500 no power to 4x4 fuse full version

Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.

Wiring Diagram Schematics for your Chevy Truck

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2001 chevy 2500 no power to 4x4 fuse full version

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It is possible that the sensor, or another component, was damaged during the repair. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect Related articles. While most people believe that domestic sedans just cannot compete with the Honda Accord and the Toyota Camry, the industry leaders, that is not necessarily true.

Yes, there are some metrics where the Camry just excels, however the Ford Fusion Vehicle sales in Alabama were also robust in I pulled the belt to check for pump shaft end play, and the shaft came right out with the pulley. I removed pressure line at steering box, and it pumps very hard and fast, but I have no gauge to check PSI with. Remove return line from steering box, and it comes out slowly, but seems ok.

The only part of the system remaining is the pressure switch, but I don't see it being the cause. The only thing I can think of is that I got a bad used box. I have asked multiple other tech, and they offer no help.

The only other thing I can think of would be the high side power steering hose. What happens is the hose falls apart inside causing a restriction. Here is a guide and some videos to help you get the problem fixed. The temp dropped towhen I went to leave later that night I could barely turn the wheels.

I checked the PS fluid level, it was a little low, so I topped it off, but the steering is still extremely hard, what would cause this? Was this answer helpful?

Only steer to the left ok, but still hard steering to the right at a standstell. But steer ok whle diving down highway. Going to the right is as it should be, when you turn left it feels like there is no power steering and you really have to put some muscle into it to get it to go right. There is a hiss coming from the steering shaft area when turning left.

It could have been doing this the entire time. I just never noticed it before. Had a buddy that's an audi mechanic check it out for about 10 seconds and he said it was the hydra boost possibly. Everything I've read on that seems to be with steering and brakes going out together. My brakes have been perfect by they way. There seems to be no fluid loss either, checked it and it was full. Thanks Was this answer helpful? Replaced all ball joints, idler arm, ect. Put new tires on car and replaced power steering pump and gearbox, did this twice.

I am at a loss.


Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Image Click to enlarge Was this answer helpful? With engine off, you can take return line loose, aim into container, rotate the pump pulley with your hand, see if fluid comes out.

The return line isn't as heavy duty as the pressure line, you should be able to tell by looking at the lines. Check the power steering oil it's good.

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